Shock ID

Moderator: Dietmar

Shock ID

Postby deadlast » May 24th, 2016, 6:09 pm

Hi all,
I bought a D13 sometime back and have been restoring it since. At Dietmar's advice, I've been working front to back, and just took the rear suspension apart last weekend. Can anyone give me an idea if the shocks and damper in this picture are worth using. None have any writing on them at all, so I don't know the brand or state of serviceability. This car has seen a lot of use, so these parts are probably tired. Maybe someone could recommend replacements.
shocks.jpg
deadlast
 
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Re: Shock ID

Postby Dietmar » May 25th, 2016, 10:56 am

Can't be certain, but from the looks of the bump rubber, I would guess those are Bilstein shocks. The steering damper is used on D-13's on the rear and could be original VW , CoFap, Boge, or... and readily available .
So, the question is...do you want to restore to some period or do you want the car on the track? If the latter I would suggest new shocks.
QA1 has the replacement Carreras at a reasonable price. Contact me directly( info above) and I can supply the numbers for the shocks or the entire kit. Good source for springs would be Blue Coil and I have those in stock or can give you some numbers for those also.

As an aside, you might also want to check the bushings in the uprights. They slide over the lower 1/2" bolts. If you have not checked them for play, reinstall the uprights, tighten them down, grab each at the top and if they have play back and forth, I would suggest having the bushings and inserts replaced. Lastly, the cellastos ( droop limiters) are also in need of attention as they rot just from sitting. Cellasto rubber is available ( bit pricey) or you can get some rubber disks which will do the same job. Feel free to contact me with any questions.

Hope this helps
Dietmar
Quixote Racing
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Re: Shock ID

Postby deadlast » May 25th, 2016, 11:03 pm

Great, thanks for the info

I should've recognized the damper as a steering damper, since I just bought two for the front to get started with.
Yes, I'd like for the car to be track capable, so I'll be buying shocks. I'll contact you offline for that.
I noticed the uprights had some slop in them when I was taking everything apart, so I'll need bushings.
And yes, the rubber in my droop limiters is all but gone. How thick should those rubbers be?
Also, most of the heim joints are sloppy. Be great if someone offered a kit with all the joints needed for this platform.
Lastly, both the universal joints on the rear shift link are shot. Since it's welded I'll have to build a new link from scratch. Apex joints are pricey little buggers, and I'm wondering where to look for a less costly alternative. I'm also inclined to cross bolt the new link to keep from doing any heat damage to the new joints.
Here's a pic of the front which is almost done. I forgot to wipe off the dust, but you get the idea.
vw2.jpg

vw1.jpg
deadlast
 
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Re: Shock ID

Postby BLS » May 26th, 2016, 12:29 am

looks like good work.

I'm sure Dietmar can fix you up with a heim joint "kit".


I'm also inclined to cross bolt the new link to keep from doing any heat damage to the new joints.


Very common. I don't know why anyone welds these but I have seen pics of welded joints. You can get the correct washers to distribute the load properly when bolting the joints to the tubing.
Barry
Old Zink FV,
'87 Citation
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Re: Shock ID

Postby Dietmar » May 26th, 2016, 12:30 am

A couple of observations and suggestions as well as answers to your questions:

Once on the ground, if the tie rods are hitting across your ankles, you can "step" the pitman arm to get it higher. Let me know when that time comes and I can help you out. You might find that the steering box tilted at that angle might contact the bodywork (nose) .
As for a "kit" for heim joints ( I assume you mean rod ends) I have all in stock as well as the droop rubber. They are 1/4" thick and have a hardness of 60. You will need a minimum of 2 and possibly a maximum of 4 depending on your weight and the spring rate that you decide to go with. Years ago when universal joints for socket sets were quality items, it was not uncommon for people to use them as joints on their shift rods. Can't recommend them any more however. There are some less expensive steering "u" joints sold through buggy shops that will be a better and cheaper alternative. On the upright bushings- they are a press fit and the insert is usually renewed at the same time. Bushings are also in stock. The major wear is on the insert both id and od.
Lastly, as a safety concern, the belly pan is riveted in. I have seen belly pans peel off especially on the D-13 with its front lip. I HIGHLY suggest that you install an inner pan under your feet and another under your seat. The inner pan in the front should be "U" shaped and riveted to the side rails ( frame) separate from the belly pan. That way if the pan gets loose, the inner pan ( and your feet) stay in the car!

Definitely give me a shout either by e-mail or phone and I would be happy to discuss the shocks or anything else with the car.

Dietmar
http://www.quixoteracing.com
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Re: Shock ID

Postby JSM 16 » October 12th, 2016, 4:41 pm

When in doubt swap it out
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